What time of the year (month) should you apply the first treatment for fire ant control & how often should you repeat the treatment? What material would you recommend for fire ant control? (Larry; Hope)

  The timing for the first fire ant application is early in spring, after temperatures are high enough for fire ants to be out foraging. Imported fire ants can be controlled by using a two-step method performed once or twice per year (spring and fall). The first step is to broadcast a bait-formulated insecticide over the entire yard. The second step, individual mound treatment with a labeled contact insecticide, occurs about a week following the first step and is applied to the stronger mounds that were not completely controlled in the first step. An alternative to using a contact insecticide is to make another broadcast application of fire ant bait. Before purchasing or using any pesticide, always read and carefully follow the directions on the container label. More information can be obtained from FSA7036, “Fire Ant Control in Two Easy Steps,” FSA7052, “Twenty Questions About Fire Ants,” MP426, “Managing Imported Fire Ants in Urban Areas,” and MP144, "Insecticide Recommendations for Arkansas."

  I can not go out in the yard without getting bitten by either mosquitoes or chiggers... Help. What can I do to kill them? (Jane; Cotter)

  My general recommendations to prevent chigger bites are as follows: 1. Wear long pants tucked into boots or socks to keep chiggers on the outside of your clothing. Wear loose fitting clothing and avoiding sitting or lying directly on the ground. 2. Avoid walking through overgrown fields and brush, especially from July through early September. Instead, walk in the center of mowed trails to avoid vegetation where chiggers (and ticks) congregate. 3. Use an insect / tick repellent. Products containing diethyl toluamide (DEET) (may be applied to the skin) or permethrin (may be applied to clothing only, NOT bare skin) are most effective. Be sure to read and follow directions for use on the container. A hot, soapy shower immediately after coming indoors will remove chiggers that have not yet attached. 4. If necessary or desired, the following chigger management options are recommended. Control of chigger infestations in large yards, parks, camps, picnic sites, and other recreational areas is often impractical. However, chiggers in play and picnic areas and around trails can be reduced by vegetation management. Regular mowing and brush removal creates a less favorable habitat for chiggers and the rodents and other small animals on which they feed. These practices are best for a long-term solution. Insecticide sprays may provide some temporary reduction of chiggers. They are most effective when directed into areas where chiggers and their animal hosts are likely to frequent. Options include dusting sulfur (various brands), bifenthrin (Ortho Bug-B-Gon MAX Lawn & Garden Insect Killer), carbaryl, (Garden Tech Sevin), cyfluthrin (Bayer Advanced Power Force Multi-Insect Killer), and a number of products containing permethrin. All chemical information is given with the understanding that no endorsement of named products is intended, nor is criticism implied of similar products that are not mentioned. Before purchasing or using any pesticide, always read and carefully follow the directions on the container label. As for my recommendations on mosquito management around the home, I have attached the factsheet FSA7059, "Mosquito Control Around the Home and in Communities .” It should address your questions with respect to mosquitoes.

  Inch worms have invaded my property. The front and back of the house is white EIFS and the back deck is gray TREX and they are all over these areas. PLUS they are also inside the house, especially the bathrooms. Do I need to spray insecticide on the plants around the house? Where are these critters coming from? HELP! (Catherine; Hot Springs)

  Based on your description, I believe that you are dealing with a caterpillar that normally feeds on foliage up in the trees. The caterpillars that are roaming over the surface of your house are probably full grown larvae and are searching for a place to pupate (a resting stage in which they change from the immature larval stage into their adult moth stage.) The caterpillars that have made it inside should just be swept or vacuumed up and disposed of. To control the caterpillars that are crawling around the outside of the house, use a residual insecticide such as (Bayer Advanced Power Force Multi-Insect Killer, Ortho Bug-B-Gon MAX Lawn & Garden Insect Killer, Ortho Bug-B-Gon Multi-Purpose Insect Killer, Spectracide Triazide Once & Done Insect Killer Concentrate for Lawn & Landscape, or other similar product). This treatment should also prevent anymore caterpillars from entering the house. Only treat with insecticide if caterpillars are still present. If caterpillars have disappeared, then no treatment should be applied. All chemical information is given with the understanding that no endorsement of named products is intended, nor is criticism implied of similar products that are not mentioned. Before purchasing or using any pesticide, always read and carefully follow the directions on the container label.

  The leaves on my columbines have yellowish, curly tracks on them. What are these and will it kill my plants? (Tosha; Pine Bluff)

  Without have a photo to confirm, your description sounds like leafminers (check with your county Extension agent to be sure). Many different insects can be leafminers, including certain flies, wasps, moths and beetles. The larvae of these insects feed on the soft interior tissues of a leaf, creating tunnels. Recommended insecticides include: acephate, bifenthrin, carbaryl, cyfluthrin, horticultural oil, imidacloprid, permethrin, pyrethrins and spinosad. Additional information can be found in and MP144, "Insecticide Recommendations for Arkansas."

  I am seeing a lot of what looks like saw dust around the rail on my porch and have seen what looks like large black bumble bees going into holes in the area that I see the wood dust. What kind of poison and how and when should I use it? Any input is appreciated. (Leslie; Jonesboro)

  From what you have described, I believe your pest problem is being caused by carpenter bees. Carpenter bees are heavy-bodied insects that resemble bumblebees. Carpenter bees can be distinguished by their shiny, black, hairless abdomens, whereas, the abdomen of the bumblebee is yellow and hairy. In the spring, carpenter bees become a nuisance as they fly erratically, close to homes and other buildings. Males hover like humming birds, waiting for females to emerge so they can mate. If the males are disturbed, they may hover or buzz around a person’s head, but, only the female stings, and then only if molested. After the mating season, most of the summer is spent loitering around the nest or nearby flowers. Carpenter bees are a nuisance to have around and they also bore into seasoned woods, especially soft woods such as cedar, redwood, pine, and fir. Damage may occur to soft or weathered woods on porches, decks, shed ceilings, railings, overhead wood trim, porch furniture, dead tree limbs, fence posts, wooden shingles, wood siding, windowsills, wood doors, etc. Female bees bore circular holes, about 1/2-inch wide, into the wood at right angles to the surface for about an inch. Then they turn sharply, boring in the direction of the wood grain for 4 to 6 inches. Structural damage caused by one or two carpenter bees is slight. However, tunnels may be used again and lengthened by subsequent generations. The activity of numerous bees over a period of years is certain to cause some structural damage. Carpenter bees do not eat the wood they tunnel in, but use these tunnels for rearing the young. Females make a cell for each larva and close each cell with chewed wood pulp. There may be as many as six to eight cells in the tunnel. Painted wood is rarely attacked by carpenter bees, so keep all exposed wood surfaces well painted. Wood stains will not prevent attacks. Wood pressure treated with a preservative should be used if painting is not practical. Treatment involves applying an insecticide like carbaryl (Sevin), bifenthrin (Ortho), cyfluthrin (Bayer Advanced), or permethrin (various brands) into the tunnel entrance. Treat the opening after dark when the bees are less active. Do not plug the holes, but allow the bees to pass freely so they can contact the insecticide. The holes should be sealed a day or two later with wood plugs, putty, or stainless steel wool to prevent further use. All chemical information is given with the understanding that no endorsement of named products is intended, nor is criticism implied of similar products that are not mentioned. Before purchasing or using any pesticide, always read and carefully follow the directions on the container label.

  How do I control Japanese beetles and keep them from defoliating my fruit trees as my sprayer will not reach the top of the tree. I have in the past use milky spores over the ground to no avail. (Betty; Huntsville)

  The solution to your problem is to acquire the appropriate application equipment that will enable you to achieve spray coverage for the entire tree. Anything less will leave portions of the tree foliage untreated and therefore subject to attack by Japanese beetle adults. An effective insecticide available to homeowners for foliar control of Japanese beetle adults is carbaryl (sold under the trade names Carbaryl or Sevin). Insecticides with the active ingredient carbaryl will protect foliage for about five days, weather permitting, so it would have to be reapplied to achieve longer term protection. Another homeowner product, esfenvalerate (sold under the trade name Ortho Bug-B-Gon Multi-Purpose Insect Killer) is a pyrethroid insecticide that is effective as a foliar spray against Japanese beetle adults. Pyrethroid based products may give up to two weeks of foliar protection per application. Spinosad and Neem based products are less effective, but are preferred by some gardeners seeking "softer" chemicals. All chemical information is given with the understanding that no endorsement of named products is intended, nor is criticism implied of similar products that are not mentioned. Before purchasing or using any pesticide, always read and carefully follow the directions on the container label.

  I have lots of winged bugs crawling on the floor of my bathroom. Are they termites or ants? (Derrick; Fayetteville)

  Look closely at the insects. Ant bodies appear constricted or pinched in at the waist, while termites do not have the waist constriction and are of similar width from end to end. Ants have elbowed antennae, while termites have straight, bead-like antennae. Ants and termites each have four wings; however, the forewings of ants are much larger than their hindwings. Termite wings are equal in size and shape. Ant wings are transparent or brownish, while termite wings are milky-white or grayish and longer than the body. Ant wings are firmly attached, while termite wings are easily removed or shed. More information can be obtained from FSA7061, “Subterranean Termite Identification and Biology ,” AG-1154, “Termite Prevention and Control Methods,” and MP144, "Insecticide Recommendations for Arkansas."

  I planted straight neck squash plants earlier in the growing season. They grew well, began to flower and then I notice a few leaves that were discolored. Next, a leaf or two would wilt and by the next morning the entire plant had collapsed. I inspected the plant and noticed it started dying from the root end up towards the growing portion of the plant. I researched the symptoms and learned it could be squash vine borers. I slit open a stalk to find a grub-like creature with a black head and white or translucent body. The straight-neck plants that I planted have all died. I still have crooked neck squash and honeydew melons (which I planted after the straight-neck began to die). Will these same borers be inclined to attack my crooked neck squash and melons? Is there a way to treat infested plants? How can I prevent my straight neck squash plants from being infested next time? (Wesley; Little Rock)

  Squash vine borers can be quite a problem in squash, cantaloupe, etc. The adult is a "clear-winged" moth with metallic greenish-black scales on the front wings. The hind wings are transparent like those of a wasp. The abdomen is ringed with orange and black. These moths fly swiftly and noisily about plants during the daytime. Female moths lay their small, oval, somewhat flattened, brownish eggs on stems in May or early June. Young borers hatch in about a week, tunnel into stems, feed and are full grown in about four weeks. They have a brownish head, six short slender legs on the thorax and five pairs of short prolegs on the abdomen. When full grown, larvae leave their burrows within the plant stem and make a cocoon in the soil. Two or three weeks later, adults emerge, giving rise to a second generation of larvae in Arkansas during early August. The insect overwinters an inch or two below the soil surface inside a tough, dirt-covered, silk-lined, black cocoon about 3/4 inch long, in either the larval or pupal stage. The key to squash vine borer management is controlling the borers before they enter the stem. Once inside the vine, insecticidal control is ineffective. Poor timing of sprays is the usual cause of inadequate control. Adult emergence occurs in the early summer, usually around mid June. At this time, begin monitoring plants weekly for initial signs of the borer's frass at entrance holes in the stems. Very early signs of larval feeding indicate that other eggs will be hatching soon. Use two insecticide applications 7 days apart to control newly hatching larvae and continue to monitor for additional activity. Sprays need to penetrate the canopy to cover the vines to be effective. The following insecticides are examples of materials that are available to homeowners and will provide adequate control of squash vine borers if applied properly: acetamiprid, (Ortho Max Flower, Fruit & Vegetable Insect Killer 0.006%), bifenthrin, (Ortho Bug-B-Gon MAX Lawn & Garden Insect Killer Concentrate 0.3%), esfenvalerate, (Ortho Bug B Gon Multi-Purpose Insect Killer 0.0033%), spinosad (Ferti-lome Borer, Bagworm, Leafminer & Tent Caterpillar Spray 0.5%, Monterey Garden Insect Spray 0.5%), permethrin (Eight Insect Control 2.5%, Bonide Total Pest Control Concentrate 13.3%), and pyrethrins + rotenone + other associated resins, (Pyrellin EC 0.6% + 0.5% + 0.5%). Home gardeners may have some success with deworming the vines. At the first signs of the sawdust like frass, vines are slit lengthwise near where the damage is found and the borers removed. The stems should be immediately covered with earth. Sanitation is also important. After harvest is complete, vines should be removed from the garden and composted to prevent the remaining borers from completing larval development. Burying a few nodes along each vine will encourage rooting at these nodes. This will lessen the impact if squash vine borers girdle the base of the vine. All chemical information is given with the understanding that no endorsement of named products is intended, nor is criticism implied of similar products that are not mentioned. Before purchasing or using any pesticide, always read and carefully follow the directions on the container label.

  We have a worm/centipede problem at home. These bugs are light-dark brown, slender and about 1/2-1 inch long with pairs of legs down each side of its body. They have a hard, shell-like body. They do not bite or eat my plants. They are just everywhere- I mean millions. They curl up when they die. They are mainly in the yard and in my garage, but recently have come in the house. This is the second year we have had these, and this year they are worse. Exterminators are unable to control them after repeated visits. They climb up walls also. Please help, they are driving me crazy! (Francis; Benton)

  You are not alone as many others have also inquired about the millipede invasion. Millipedes are similar to centipedes, but have two pairs of legs per body segment. Some people mistakenly refer to them as “wireworms”. Wireworms are the larval stage of a beetle that feeds on roots of plants. Millipedes are usually brown to blackish in color. The elongated body is rounded, not flattened, and they have no poison claws. They usually coil up when disturbed, similar to the behavior exhibited by sowbugs or pillbugs (a related invertebrate). Millipedes are usually restricted to moist places where they feed on organic matter. In the fall or very wet or dry periods during the summer, they may become a nuisance because they migrate away from feeding areas and invade homes. Because they crawl along the ground, they are usually found in lower floors and basements. Once inside the home, they usually die due to desiccation, although in moist basements, they can survive longer. Millipedes feed primarily on decaying organic matter, but may attack roots and leaves of seedling plants. Millipedes also live in organic matter (leaves, mulch, or piles of wood or wood chips) and other material close to the house. Over-mulching and/or overwatering in the garden can result in millipede attack on vegetable plants. Removing the organic debris or mulch materials near your home will help reduce the potential for invading millipedes. To discourage millipedes near the house, remove mulch and dead vegetation adjacent to the house. Outdoors, you may wish to treat a 10-15 foot strip around the house perimeter with an insecticide. Do not forget to treat the exterior basement wall, window frames and door sills. Over-the-counter pyrethroid insecticides (active ingredient: bifenthrin, cyfluthrin, cypermethrin, lambda-cyhalothrin, pyrethrins, resmethrin, or tralomethrin) are recommended for control of millipedes because they are fast-acting. People and pets should stay off wet insecticides, but can safely walk on the yard once the insecticide is dry. When treating inside the home, baseboards, cracks, crevices or other hiding places such as under clothes washers and dryers in utility rooms may be sprayed with appropriately labeled pyrethroid products. Contact sprays of pyrethrins may be applied directly to centipedes and millipedes for quick control. Appropriately labeled granular pyrethroid or carbaryl insecticide may be used on turf. They perform better than dusts or sprays in this situation. The safest and most environmentally sound way to control millipedes and centipedes, that are already in the house, is to use a vacuum or broom to sweep them up. However, damp hiding places can be treated with indoor insecticides labeled for this use. Millipedes are not poisonous, but many species have repugnatorial glands capable of producing irritating fluids which may produce allergic reactions in individuals sensitive to insects or insect toxins. A few millipede species are capable of squirting these fluids over a distance of several inches. Persons handling millipedes will notice a lingering odor on their hands and the fluid can be dangerous to the eyes. It is not advisable to handle millipedes, but when one has been held, hands should be washed with soap and water until the odor is completely gone. All chemical information is given with the understanding that no endorsement of named products is intended, nor is criticism implied of similar products that are not mentioned. Before purchasing or using any pesticide, always read and carefully follow the directions on the container label.

  I’ve got ants and they are crawling up and all over the plants in my garden. What can I do to control ants that will not hurt the vegetables or me when I eat the vegetables? (Ricky; Little Rock)

  Most often when ants are seen on plants they are feeding on honeydew produced by aphids. Look your corn, okra, and other plants over carefully and if you do find aphids, insecticides containing neem or insecticidal soap are recommended for aphid control. Ants can be effectively controlled in the garden with insecticides containing carbaryl as an active ingredient. Materials with these active ingredients should be available to homeowners at most stores with a garden supply section. All chemical information is given with the understanding that no endorsement of named products is intended, nor is criticism implied of similar products that are not mentioned. Before purchasing or using any pesticide, always read and carefully follow the directions on the container label.

  When ever I go outside I get bitten by an insect that you can't see and a bump pops up I think they are called no see ums but I CAN'T GET RID OF THEM. Is there anything I can put down to help? (William; Little Rock)

  There are no insecticide area treatments that are effective over the long term for control of Biting Midges or No-see-ums. Your best bet is to use an insect repellent to help prevent them from biting. Biting midges or no-see-ums are tiny biting flies in the Family Ceratopogonidae. These almost microscopic biters are a nuisance to campers, fishermen, gardeners or anyone active outdoors in the early morning or late evening. The name no-see-um is appropriate since they are difficult to see and their bite is disproportionate to their size. Adults are less than 1/8 inch sometimes closer to 1/16 of an inch in length. Wings are covered with dense hairs that result in pigmented patterns on the wings. Mouth parts are well developed with elongated mandibles adapted for blood sucking. Both males and females feed on nectar but only the female feeds on blood. She must consume blood for her eggs to mature. Biting midge eggs are only about 0.25 mm in length and laid on moist soil. Eggs hatch into wormlike larvae with short brush like breathing structures that allows them to breathe in an aquatic environment. Although larvae are not strictly aquatic or terrestrial they can not develop without moisture. After adults emerge from the final immature or pupal stage they feed and mate. Common breeding areas include along the edges of springs, streams and ponds, muddy and swampy areas, tree holes, and even water associated with air conditioning units. These tiny flies are ferocious biters causing painful and irritating bites in some people. Allergic or sensitive individuals may develop long-lasting painful and itchy lesions. Outdoor enthusiasts can protect themselves with insect repellents. Repellents containing DEET, typically used against mosquitoes, are also labeled for use against biting midges. Always follow the label precautions and apply repellents before exposure to these biters. Occasionally no-see-ums and biting midges will also enter houses and screened patios through standard 16 mesh screening and netting or damaged areas of the screen. If this is the case you can replace damaged screen with tighter mesh screen or treat existing screen with an approved insecticide such permethrin. Also, try turning on the ceiling fan on your porch; ceiling and window fans will often keep biting midges away since they are weak fliers. When using an insecticide read and follow label directions. Applications of insecticides targeting the adult stage are not efficient. While this type of application may kill biting midges active on a given night, they are continually dispersing from the larval habitat and entering areas of human activity. It would require insecticide applications on a daily basis in some areas, and this is not efficient or environmentally sound.

  I am plagued with small insects that look similar to a flea, size etc. but they are restricted to doorways, windows... attracted to light. I find most of them mainly around doors, or glass around the doors. Tiny, tiny and we kill them in one location, and a month or two later they are in another. They seem to come out in the spring and fall mainly, but I just had some appear by the front door. There are a lot of them, a swarm in a sense. What are these? How do I get rid of them for good? They are not fleas. They don't venture from those areas, except to the refrigerator water dispensing light. (Joslyn; Fayetteville)

  You are probably dealing with collembola, commonly called springtails. Springtails Habits: Springtails inhabit only moist or damp areas because they can rapidly dehydrate. Most species occur in the soil and in enormous numbers (up to 50,000 per cubic foot of forest litter or up to 30,000/sq meter in planted fields. They often invade structures in search of moisture when their habitat becomes dry. They can enter through door thresholds, around utility pipes, through window screens, etc. They are frequently brought into structures, including offices, in potted plants. They are attracted to lights. Springtails feed on decaying vegetation, fungi, bacteria, pollen, algae, lichens, arthropod feces, and carrion. Indoors, they are commonly found in the high-moisture areas occurring in bathrooms and kitchens, damp crawlspaces and basements, and damp wall voids. They can often be found trapped in sinks and tubs. Moldy bedding, mattresses, couches, and stuffed chairs have been found to support large infestations. If mildew can be smelled, springtails may be a problem. In offices, the most common source is potted plants. Outdoors, sources include leaf litter, mulch, under debris on the ground, firewood or logs on the ground, decaying railroad ties and landscape timbers, etc. The best control is simply to dry out the site of infestation and the springtails will die or leave. High numbers of springtails can often be quickly reduced with a vacuum. If the area cannot be dried out, then the application of an appropriately labeled pesticide may be required. Consult your local county Extension office for recommended insecticides.

  There are worms (green with black dots forming lines, and a black head) eating the needles of this Japanese cedar. I think it is some sort of a sawfly. What can I use to kill them? (Pamela; Little Rock)

  Sawfly larvae can be controlled with various formulations of acephate (Ortho Orthene, Hi-Yield Acephate, Valent Turf, Tree and Ornamental Spray), various formulations of carbaryl (Ferti-Lome Liquid Carbaryl Garden Spray, Garden Tech Sevin), or imidacloprid (Bayer Advanced Tree and Shrub Insect Control / liquid formulation applied as a foliar spray). All chemical information is given with the understanding that no endorsement of named products is intended, nor is criticism implied of similar products that are not mentioned. Before purchasing or using any pesticide, always read and carefully follow the directions on the container label.

Useful Information

• Pest Management News
• Insecticide Recommendations for Arkansas - MP144

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